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Takwa Ruins – The Lost Swahili City of Lamu’s Forgotten Past

  • Writer: maria maris
    maria maris
  • Nov 13
  • 3 min read

Hidden deep within the mangrove forests of Manda Island, just across from Lamu Town, lie the haunting and atmospheric Takwa Ruins — one of Kenya’s most significant archaeological treasures from the Swahili civilization.


Quiet, isolated, and beautifully preserved, Takwa offers visitors a rare glimpse into life along the East African coast between the 15th and 17th centuries. The abandoned city tells a story of trade, culture, migration, and spiritual life — all set against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean.


For lovers of history, photography, coastal culture, and off-the-beaten-path travel, Takwa Ruins is one of Lamu’s most enchanting experiences.


Ancient stone ruins with arches surrounded by a vast baobab tree under a clear blue sky, casting dramatic shadows on the sandy ground.
Ancient stone ruins with arches surrounded by a vast baobab tree under a clear blue sky, casting dramatic shadows on the sandy ground.

Where Are the Takwa Ruins Located?


Takwa Ruins are found on Manda Island, part of the Lamu Archipelago in northern Kenya. They can only be reached by boat from:

  • Lamu Town (20–30 minutes)

  • Shela Village (15 minutes)

  • Manda Airport (short boat hop)


The journey itself is scenic — passing mangroves, tidal channels, and calm ocean waters.


A Forgotten Swahili Settlement


Takwa was a thriving Swahili town between the 1500s and early 1600s.Archaeologists believe the people of Takwa were:

  • Muslim

  • Skilled traders

  • Fishermen

  • Connected to the wider Indian Ocean world


The town was eventually abandoned around the 1600s, possibly due to:

  • Lack of freshwater

  • Clan conflicts

  • Migration to nearby Shela


Today, the ruins sit untouched, surrounded by quiet forest and birdlife, giving it an almost mystical atmosphere.


Takwa’s Most Iconic Structure – The Great Mosque

The most famous landmark at Takwa is the Great Mosque, one of the best-preserved on the East African coast.


Distinctive features include:

  • A large central prayer hall

  • Coral-stone walls

  • Decorative mihrab (prayer niche)

  • A massive baobab tree growing beside the ruins


The mosque’s mihrab once served as a sacred pilgrimage point for the people of Shela, who traveled here to pray for rainfall.


Ancient ruins with stone columns surround a massive tree, roots sprawling over the ground. Sunlight casts warm hues, creating a serene mood.
Ancient ruins with stone columns surround a massive tree, roots sprawling over the ground. Sunlight casts warm hues, creating a serene mood.

Other Important Structures in the Ruins


The site contains numerous remains of Swahili domestic life, including:


Coral Stone Houses


You can still see the layouts of homes made from:

  • Coral blocks

  • Mangrove timber

  • Lime plaster


Many structures include courtyards, pillars, and internal wells.


Tombs & Burial Sites


Several graves and tombs exhibit Swahili burial traditions, with pillar tombs marking high-status individuals.


City Walls & Walkways


The ruins include portions of city walls, alleyways, and sections that show how the town was organized.


Atmosphere & Scenery


Takwa Ruins is special not just because of the archaeology, but because of its untouched natural setting:

  • Surrounded by dense mangroves

  • Quiet except for birds and ocean wind

  • Overgrown pathways

  • Ancient baobab trees

  • Perfect soft golden light for photography


It feels like stepping into a silent world frozen in time.


Why Takwa Was Abandoned


Historians have different theories:

  1. Freshwater scarcity – Wells dried up, forcing communities to move.

  2. Conflicts – Clan disputes may have destabilized the area.

  3. Migration to Shela – Many Takwa residents eventually settled in Shela, Lamu.

  4. Economic shifts – Decline in Indian Ocean trade routes affected coastal towns.


Despite the abandonment, the site remains spiritually significant.


How to Get to Takwa Ruins


From Lamu or Shela:

  • Hire a boat taxi

  • Book through your hotel or tour operator

  • Combine the visit with:

    • Sand dunes at Shela

    • Manda Beach

    • Snorkeling or dhow ride


Boat rides are scenic and safe in calm weather.


Best Things to See and Do at Takwa Ruins


1. Explore the Great Mosque


The highlight of the site — perfect for history lovers and photographers.


2. Walk Through Ancient Swahili Streets


The ruins allow you to imagine daily life centuries ago.


3. Visit the Sacred Baobab Tree


A towering baobab that has grown within the ruins adds to the mystical feel.


4. Enjoy a Quiet Nature Walk


Birds, crabs, mangrove roots, and ocean sounds create a peaceful experience.


5. Dhow Ride Back to Lamu


A traditional dhow ride at sunset completes the trip perfectly.


Best Time to Visit


  • Morning: Cooler, excellent light for photography

  • Late afternoon: Warm glow and peaceful atmosphere

  • January–March & July–October: Best weather


The site can flood at high tide, so timing your visit matters.


What to Bring


  • Comfortable shoes

  • Water (no shops on Manda side)

  • Camera

  • Hat & sunscreen

  • Small cash for boat fees


Why Visit Takwa Ruins?


Takwa Ruins offers:

  • A rare chance to explore an abandoned Swahili town

  • Peace, silence, and untouched natural beauty

  • A deep connection to Kenya’s coastal history

  • Architecture preserved for more than 400 years

  • A perfect half-day cultural and nature experience


It is quieter, more atmospheric, and more mysterious than many other historic sites along the Swahili Coast.


If you want a destination that blends history, culture, archaeology, nature, and adventure —Takwa Ruins is one of Lamu’s most magical places to visit.

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